How to Make a Pleated Pinafore Dress in any size!

In today's post: Learn how to make a pleated pinafore apparel in whatsoever size past creating your own pinafore dress design.

My daughter has been asking for more than warm dresses for wintertime. I've actually been surprised how many dresses (even during the holiday flavour) are brusque sleeved, which makes for a pretty cold church building service during January. I LOVE the look of pinafore dresses, so I decided to make her a nice pleated pinafore from a warm flannel. Paired with a long sleeve tee and knee highs or tights and she'll be enough warm until spring!

Now, I should warn you that this post is long.  That's because outset, I'll show you how to create your own pattern pieces so you lot can make this pinafore wearing apparel in whatsoever size!

I've too included dimensions for a girls' size ten dress (25 inch waist), so the process volition be simpler if you lot're making that size.

Next, I'll walk yous through each step to sew the pinafore together. There's cypher very hard virtually making this dress, but it does have more than steps than my normal sewing tutorials. That's because we're going to stitch it upthe right way, including all the professional looking finishes.

Simply don't worry if you're more of a slapdash sewist (which I am most of the time!). I dear pinafores so much that I'm already scheming up a cheater version that will use shortcuts. Check back for that next month!

Create your Pinafore Dress Pattern

The directions for making your own pinafore dress design wait complicated because I've tried to be very thorough, merely honestly information technology's not that difficult. Yous're merely need to create 4 unlike pattern pieces, and they are all rectangles! So follow each step and yous'll be skillful to get.

To make this dress in any size you'd like, yous'll demand to take some measurements first. You need four different pattern pieces, so you'll demand four measurements.

1. TO Brand THE WAISTBAND PATTERN PIECES, measure the girl's waist. Mensurate over a shirt like the ane she would wearable nether a pinafore, and keep the measuring record comfortable, non pulled tight. The waistband pattern piece volition exist two inches loftier, plus two inches longer than the WAIST MEASUREMENT. (Notation: this creates a waistline with virtually an inch of "give" and then it'southward not also tight.) Y'all volition demand ii waistband pattern pieces.

So if the waist measurement was 25 inches, the waistband pieces volition be two inches alpine by 27 inches wide.

2. TO Brand THE SKIRT Blueprint PIECE, measure out from the girl'south waist to the genu, or wherever you would like the skirt to hitting. Add two inches to that number to get the length for the brim piece. The width of the skirt piece is going to be double the waistband slice. Y'all will demand 1 skirt piece.

In my case, the waist to knee measurement is 18 inches. And then the skirt slice will be 20 inches alpine by 54 inches wide (that's double 27 from the waistband to a higher place).

3. TO MAKE THE PINAFORE SQUARE PATTERN Piece, measure the size of the foursquare that will sit against the girl'south chest. I detect information technology's easiest to hold up a sheet of paper and cutting it to a size that looks skilful. Measure that, and and so add one inch to the tiptop and width for seam assart. You will need 2 pinafore squares.

In my example, the square ended upwards at vii×7 inches, so the pinafore piece will be cut viii inches wide and eight inches tall. Please note this slice doesn't have to be exactly square – I actually wish I had made mine an inch wider than it is tall.

4. TO Make THE STRAP PATTERN PIECES, measure from the tiptop of where the square will sit over the shoulder and back down to the waistband, criss crossed. Add together virtually 4 inches to that number to become the strap length (that will make the straps plenty long and we can shorten as needed later on on). The width for each strap piece is iii inches. Y'all will need two strap pieces.

In my case, from the top of the foursquare over the shoulder dorsum to the waist is 21 inches. So my strap pieces will each be 25 inches long by 3 inches wide.

Yous may create newspaper pattern pieces for your pinafore dress if you'd like, but since all iv pieces are rectangles that's not necessary. Yous tin can cut out the pieces using the measurements you've just created.

What Fabric should I use and how much will I need?

Yous want to use a woven (non-stretchy) fabric for this pinafore. I used a flannel, which is dainty because it's sturdy but non too thick to pleat. A medium weight textile is best. If you choose to use a lighter weight fabric, yous may want to iron interfacing onto the strap and waistband pieces (and maybe the pinafore square besides).

Exist certain to wash and dry out your material before y'all begin.

How much fabric you need will depend on the size of dress you are making, besides equally how long you want the dress. In one case you have the measurements for your pieces you can figure out how they will fit on your fabric. I recommend using 60 inch wide fabric if possible considering it will be much easier to fit the skirt piece.

Y'all can see from my diagram higher up how the design pieces I needed for a size 10 dress fit on one and a one-half yards of 60 inch wide textile. I could have gotten away with one and a quarter yards, but it's always good to get a little extra, specially considering most woven fabrics will compress when washed and stale.

Please annotation that you volition also need a 7 inch invisible zipper.

Notation for creating patterns for larger sizes

Delight annotation, if you utilise 60 inch wide fabric, you'll exist able to cut your pieces as directed for up to a 28 inch waist, which will comprehend most girls' sizes and small adult sizes. If your want to make this skirt for someone with a larger waist (similar me!) y'all have ii options:

First, y'all can merely cutting your skirt slice the entire width of the fabric (sixty inches), no matter what your waistband length is. This will require y'all to make some adjustments when you pleat the brim; i.e. you won't exist able to put as many pleats in or the pleats will need to be smaller. You lot tin can just play with the pleating to get in piece of work. This option is simplest, but the skirt won't terminate up equally full.

2d, if yous actually want your skirt to exist full, you'll need to create a skirt slice that is twice the width of your waistband piece. Do this by cutting ii brim pieces that are each the width of your waistband + ane inch. Cut one piece in half width-wise, and then sew one half piece to each side of the full piece. That will give you a skirt piece that's twice the width of your waistband with a seam down each side. This will require more than textile (additional yardage that matches the length of your brim piece).

Note for using Plaid Fabrics

When you cutting out your textile pieces, Please TAKE Notation if you are using a plaid fabric. Be sure that the vertical center of your pinafore squares, waistband, and skirt pieces are on the line where two colors meet, NOT the center of a foursquare. This volition brand matching up centers and pleating much simpler.

Ok, the hard office is done and now it's time to sew upwards this dress!

How to Make a Pinafore Dress: Sew together the straps

Fold each strap piece in one-half lengthwise and sew together downwardly the long edge, using a scant ane/ii inch seam allowance.

Turn the straps right side out. Iron.

Topstitch along both long edges if desired. This isn't necessary, but information technology does requite a professional wait.

How to Brand a Pinafore Dress: Sew the Pinafore Square

Lay one pinafore square down on a table, correct side facing up. Place a strap just barely over half an inch from each side and pin, as shown below.

Lay the other pinafore square on top of the beginning, right sides facing. Pin upwards one side, across the top, and down the other side. Run up, using a half inch seam allowance. BE Sure Not TO CATCH THE STRAPS IN THE SIDE SEAMS.

Clip beyond the acme corners and turn the pinafore square right side out. Press well and topstitch along the 3 sewn edges if desired.

How to Make a Pinafore Dress: Pleat the skirt

Place on waistband piece down on a table. Mark the center. Place the skirt piece beneath it. Mark the center.

Starting from the center of the skirt piece, measure out and pin at ii inch intervals, both to the right side and to the left. In the photo beneath I've number the pins, 0 being the center, then one, 2, 3 etc.

Grab pivot 2 and match it up with pin one, folding the excess fabric underneath toward the centre. This creates your first pleat. Pin the pleat to secure.

Then accept pivot 4 and lucifer it to pin iii, creating some other pleat. Continue pleating from the middle outward on each side until your skirt slice is roughly the aforementioned width as your waistband piece (the skirt may end up slightly wider on each side than the waistband, that's ok).

Notation: You do non want to have pleats correct at the edges of the waistband because you will be installing a zipper at that place. Make sure your last pleat is 1.five inches away from the border of the waistband. If you end upward having a pleat very close to the end, just remove that pleat.

Note: Your pleats don't take to be 2 inches apart! That's simply what I did because it'due south like shooting fish in a barrel. But if y'all prefer to have fewer pleats, feel free to space them farther apart, or to make your pleats more shallow. If your skirt piece isn't twice the width of your waistband slice, y'all'll need to add fewer pleats or space them farther autonomously. Just play with the spacing until your skirt slice is roughly the aforementioned width as your waistband.

As you create your pleats, printing them down near two inches from the meridian.

Sew beyond the superlative of the pleats, 1/four inch from the edge, to keep them in place.

So identify one waistband piece along the top edge of the pleated skirt, matching upwardly centers and right sides facing. Sew the waistband piece to the skirt using 1/2 inch seam allowance and press.

Flip the waistband piece up and printing the seam allowance upward. Topstitch (if desired) over the seam allowance. This has been washed in the photo above.

How to Make a Pinafore Dress: Install the zipper

At this signal, y'all'll want to wrap the skirt around the girl and pin the sides together in the back where it feels most comfortable. Be sure the girl is wearing whatever shirt she'll usually vesture nether the pinafore when you do this.

Mark where the two pieces should meet. Add together 1/two an inch to each side for seam assart and trim any excess textile at this point.

Now you lot'll install an invisible attachment. The zipper teeth should starting time 1/ii inch below the peak of the waistband. That probably means that the zipper tape volition exist just higher up the meridian of the waistband, as seen below.

If you need assistance installing an invisible zipper, this is a great tutorial. The tutorial uses an invisible attachment foot, merely y'all don't actually demand one. Yous tin can use your normal presser foot; but be sure yous press the zipper tape open first, and and so sew an even 1/8 inch abroad from the zipper anxiety.

Sew upwards the rest of the dorsum seam and press open.

Zipper installed:

How to Make a Pinafore Clothes: Attach the Pinafore

Ok, now the skirt is sewn and the pinafore is sewn and it'south fourth dimension to connect them together.

Observe the front centre of the skirt waistband and mark information technology. Place the pinafore foursquare on peak of the brim, matching raw edges and center points. Pin. (You can sew the pinafore to the brim now if you want, just utilise a ane/iv inch seam allowance.)

THEN lucifer and pivot the other waistband slice (which is now chosen the waistband facing) to the skirt waist, sandwiching the pinafore foursquare in between.

The edges of the waistband facing should extend 1/two inch beyond the zipper, equally shown beneath:

Sew together all the way effectually the summit, sewing the waistband facing to the waistband (with the pinafore sandwiched in between).

Now we're going to end off the facing so the wearing apparel looks tidy and very professional person on the within.

Printing the waistband up, and the seam allowance down. Go alee and topstitch over the seam assart if desired, starting and catastrophe i/ii an inch abroad from the zipper.

Yous too demand to refuse the elevation 1/four inch of the facing and press:

Now you tin can fold the waistband facing to the inside, and it volition completely cover the seam allowances at the tiptop and lesser of the waistband. Tuck in the short border that'southward closest to the zipper every bit well.

Pivot it downwardly, and from the outside sew in the seam betwixt the skirt and waistband. This is called "stitching in the ditch".

You as well desire to tuck in the edge of the facing that's close to the zipper and handtack it downwards and so it's out of the way of the zipper.

How to Make a Pinafore Wearing apparel: Finishing

Ok, nigh in that location! Now you can effort the dress on your daughter and decide where you want the straps to attach in back. You can run up the straps in place OR add together buttons inside (or outside) the waistband. If you add buttons, you'll need to finish off the ends of your straps and add together a buttonhole.

I found that with the zipper open up, my girl tin put the clothes on and take it off without the straps needing to come undone. So I simply sewed the straps to the back of the apparel. I sewed forth both lines of topstitching on the waistband.

The last step is to fold upward the hem 1/ii inch, then some other 1/2 inch and sew around the bottom. Pleated pinafore done!

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Source: https://www.itsalwaysautumn.com/pinafore-dress-pattern.html

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